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The Reverse French

The Reverse French

The true French finish

The Reverse French

For many years most nail technicians created a pink and white nail extension by putting the white down first.  This meant that the nail bed length really dictated the length of the overall extension to ensure the nail did not look top heavy and unbalanced.    

Just like the deep smile line, the real development of the reverse French came from the competition nail pioneers who wanted to use opaque pinks to make nail beds longer when perfect nail models were not available.

The technique has been used extensively in Eastern Europe for many years now and is now becoming a recognised service in the UK as more and more clients are seeing the transformation that can be created.  It is more aesthetically pleasing even on a short nail and is a fantastic technique to use on nail bitters.  Also as you are using a cover pink the free edge regrowth doesn’t show allowing a greater length of time between maintenance appointments which means a larger client list!

When making salon nails in this technique filing in the perfect smile line is not a time viable option,  but there are different ways to be able to create the look faster, however the fading of the cover pink towards the cuticle area still remains an important component of this look.

Tips for the technique:

·Acrylic – ensure the nail bed extension is dry before you put on the free edge colour.  If the acrylic is still wet then you won’t be able to clean and crispen the smile line as wet acrylic grabs wet acrylic and won’t let go.

·Gel – using a thicker viscosity cover pink will allow you to create the perfect smile line shape faster and more precisely.

·Another fast option to give the look is to create the nail in cover pink and then using a highly pigmented white, paint on the free edge.  This is not only faster for first applications but also for subsequent maintenance.

Crystal Nails Absolute International Master Educators  favourite tools and materials for the technique:

Kerry Moores – Cover Pink Next Acrylic Powder.  ‘The colour of Cover Pink Next beautifully blends with the nail plate, which is what is the most important thing to consider when choosing your cover pink.  I love to use this with the Easy Pink on the top as it creates such a beautiful look.’

Karolina Tryc – French Top Gel (White) – ‘The pigment level in this gel allows me to create a paint on white free edge in one layer.  Speed is important in the salon, however I don’t want to compromise on the look; preventing a nail from looking bulky with a paint on gel requires a gel that can cover thinly yet fully opaque. ‘

Karina Perematko – Rocky Cover Light – ‘My salon work is faster as the gel is slightly thicker than cover pink and stays exactly where I put it.  With a good application technique you don’t need to clean up the smile line shape at all saving me more valuable time.’

Paulina Zdrada – #3 Gel Brush  ‘This brush is perfect for painting the free edge fast and precisely onto the top of the extension with a gel colour.   It’s a slanted brush which I use to create salon smile line shape as well as deeper dramatic one.’

CrystalNails Admin

Dec 07, 2016

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